The Greenbottle Blue (Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens) is one of the most colourful and beautiful tarantulas currently available though sadly they have become far rarer recently than they once were some years ago.
Hailing from Venezuela in South America the Greenbottle Blue is an easy-enough tarantula to keep in captivity and requires no specialist treatment.
The youngsters are typically pink and black with a stripey abdomen and start to develop their adult colours at a legspan of around an inch and a half to two inches. The adults possess a bright orange rump, metallic blue legs and a metallic green carapace meaning they are incredibly attractive and as a result always popular pets.
Greenbottle blues reach a legspan of around five inches as adults and so are certainly not large spiders. They are reasonably docile and slow moving so are easy to cater for and they also typically have very healthy appetites indeed feeding far more regularly than the slower growing tarantulas like Mexican Red Knees.
In terms of housing the Greenbottle Blue doesn’t require too much space. Typically a fish tank, tupperware container or specialist spider tank of around 30cm long will be more than sufficient for this tarantula species.
Typically the Greenbottle Blue doesn’t dig a hole, nor is it arboreal but will rather find a place to hide away, often producing plenty of web in order to feel safe. I find a plastic flower pot, laid on it’s side, and placed at the back of the tank typically makes a welcome place to hide.
As with all tarantulas in captivity, a small water bowl should be available at all times and heating should be provided. A temperature of around 24’C seems ideal and can be provided through a low-wattage reptile heat mat.
Coming from South America these spiders appreciate a higher humidity than many others so it is important to spray the cage from time to time in order to maintain this. This higher humidity can also lead to mould or fungus growing if one isn’t careful and so one should be certain to ensure there is suitable ventilation to avoid this.
A standard substrate such as 50% peat-free potting compost and 50% vermiculite works well for these spiders as it looks reasonably natural and also helps to keep the humidity up in the cage.
As mentioned, these are hungry spiders and can grow rapidly. They should be fed ideally several times a week.
Most livefoods will be taken but I personally like to use locusts of varying sizes because escaped crickets can be such a pain! My adults will often eat 2 locusts per feed so be certain you are offering food often enough if you keep this species.